Sunday, July 8, 2007

JULY 7th, 2007


SATURDAY July 7th, 2007

"What are these guys doing here?"

On Saturday we wandered all over the lower part of the city around Colaba and Fort. We went to see the Prince of Wales Museum, built at the same time as the Gate of India, and in the same Indo-Persian style. We got there with just enough time to look around at the wide variety of items (including unremarkable European oil paintings), with an insightful audio-guide about the treasures they do have- and an added bonus of learning about the Hindu religion and the history of the area. After that we roamed through the streets by the old fishing village- home to the original settlers of Bombai, (and the Goddess they used to worship Mumba). We got a little lost and wandered into some areas that were a little dicey, but it somehow Hardy and I – being so very white- are viewed more as a curiosity to the natives, who are always very respectful and non-threatening. More like “what are these guys doing here?” than “victims.” So we bumbled around through the backstreets (actually we did have a map!), and finally made it over the Colaba Market with its crazy jumble of building supplies, flowers, fruit and everything and dipped into the world’s smallest Baskin Robbins, like a tiny ice cream oasis, and got our bearings. Fortunately we were very close to our target, the i-cafĂ©. Since it was too early in the states to call, we went back to Leopold’s, but this time sat upstairs in the very hip bar full of expatriots, and then I realized that this was the same bar that the writer of Shantaram, David Gregory, frequented in the book. Of course when Hardy and I decided to come to Mumbai, we went and bought lots of books; Hardy read some of Maximum City, a Wildlife guide to Sanjay Gandhi Park, and the Lonely Planet. Hardy’s mother, who has been to India many times, sent us a book (more like a tome at 900+ pages) called Shantaram, about an Australian convict who takes up Bombay as his home. And actually, reading this book did make me feel more comfortable with the city, like I knew it a little bit. Unfortunately, David Gregory, who I’m told still hangs out at Leopold’s, didn’t turn up by the time we finished our cold Budweiser in the very hot bar, having watched enough of Genesis at Wembley (for the Live Earth concert), to get us motivated to make some phone calls.

We finally found the CyberCafe-International Phone Booth -thank god we were on the wrong side of the street, and happened to look up to the second story to see the tiny “I-way” sign! Up an old Victorian staircase, the I-way had about 20 computer terminals and a couple of phone booth where you can make a call to the US for Rs 15 a minute. Hardy called his brother, and I called my numbers. We then had to head back to the hotel for my 10:30PM shot of Ovidrelle that was going to make the egg “bloom” and be ready for harvesting. After the shots we lay in bed and tried to imagine the egg blooming.

JULY 6th, 2007


FRIDAY July 6th, 2007

Diminishing Returns

As Hardy likes to remind me, and Dr. Naj liked to remind us both, this is a game of diminishing returns. In other words, we are down to one egg. Today, my E2 sank instead of rose, and that indicated that we were probably losing the other eggs. After an early morning E2, and a scan, my left ovary (remember my right is a complete no-show), had one well-rounded (literally) egg, that was almost the size it needed to be. The two other follicles were smaller and still oddly shaped, so they are most likely not candidates, although they probably will be extracted and fertilized on the off-chance that something happens with them. My extraction will be early on Monday morning and is supposed to take about 20 minutes.
And, at long last, we were able to pay the hospital the money for the surrogate, and the head-hunter, or in the literature “the woman who finds the surrogate.”
We had brought Travellers Checks for the purpose of paying for our Hospital charges, as getting a lot of money out via credit card is difficult. All our other expenses could be paid for by taking money out of the numerous ATMs-but not large sums. The day before yesterday we made a trip down to the American Express office in Fort, but after waiting for the teller to return from lunch, we were informed you are not allowed to exchange more than $2000 per passport per month, and besides which, he didn’t have that kind of money available and to come back tomorrow. When we did come back tomorrow, it was first to Thomas Cook, whose offices are spacious (and air-conditioned) where they helped us right away, and then to AmEx, to change the rest of our money, before anyone was the wiser. So although we know Regal Square well, we have managed to do almost no sight seeing.
So today, after exchanging the last of our Travellers Checks (at the HSBC right around the corner) we went off to see the Haji Ali Mosque. This Mosque is located on an “island” in the bay, and you have to take a walkway that they say is occasionally covered by a high tide. The story goes that the Prophet Haji Ali went off to fight a Holy War (against who I wonder?), and was killed in battle, but his coffin miraculously floated back to this point in Bombay. So, they built a Mosque here, that I think even (or maybe especially) Haji Ali would find somewhat dilapidated. While there I had my first encounter with urchins- of the child variety- who initially ripped a 20 Rupee piece from my hand and ran away, but later ended up giving me several one rupee pieces which I think they figured I wouldn’t take, and walking back with us all the way back down the walkway- to the Coke vendor, where, even though they were very charming, we did not buy them a Coke.